Method of winding and winding apparatus



y 9, 3939- H. R. HAWGOOD 2,157,984

METHOD OF WINDING AND WINDING APPARATUS Filed June 15, 1936 Patented May 9, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF WINDING AND WINDING APPARATUS 15 Claims.

This invention relates to a method of winding and to winding apparatus and is particularly applicable for use inproducing lasting curls such as are known as permanent waves in hair upon the human head.

An object of the invention is to provide an improved method for waving hair upon the human head which will produce a wave closely simulating in appearance that of naturally curly hair.

Another object is to provide an improved method in which the distribution of the hair, on winding, will be accomplished in an automatic manner.

Another object is to provide an improved method in which uniform tension will be placed upon the various filaments of the hair.

Another object is to provide an improved method in which comfort of the subject will be greatly increased.

Another object is to provide an improved apparatus which will be easy to manipulate.

Another object is to provide an improved apparatus by which the process of waving hair may be carried on.

Another object is to provide an improved apparatus which may be readily and economically manufactured.

Another object is to provide an improved apparatus which will be of simple and rugged construction.

Other objects will hereinafter appear.

The invention will be better understood from the description of several practical embodiments thereof illustrated in the accompanying drawing,

) in which;

Figure 1 is a perspective view of two pieces of apparatus constituting one embodiment of the invention;

Figure 2 is a perspective view of the apparatus of Figure 1 showing the manner in which it is applied;

Figure 3 is a cross-sectional view taken on the line III--III of Figure 2;

Figure 4 is a cross-sectional view taken on the line IV-IV of Figure 2;

Figures 5 and 6 are views similar to Figure 4, but showing progressive stages in the winding operation;

Figure '7 is a perspective view of another form of winding rod embodying the invention;

Figure 8 is a cross-sectional view of the rod of Figure '7 taken on the line VIII-VIII thereof;

Figure 9 is a view similar to Figure 6, but showing the rod of Figures 7 and 8; and

Figure 10 is a central sectional perspective view, parts being broken away, of another form of rod embodying the invention.

For something over twenty years, hair on the human head has been given waves of a lasting character by what is commonh known as permanent waving. This type of waving difiers from previous, more temporary types of waves given with a hand iron, in that the hair is subjected to a longer process involving the application of moisture and heat simultaneously, which, as it were, steams the hair, causing it to take a set which is retained for relatively long periods of time.

In order to steam the hair into a simulation of a natural curl, it is necessary that it be formed into a shape corresponding to that desired, or into an exaggeration of the shape desired.

For this purpose, various configurations have been tried, such as arranging hair in sinusoidal fashion or winding it into either helical or spiral shape.

Inasmuch as much confusion in this art has resulted from misapplication of the word spiral to a winding which was in the form approximating a mathematical helix, it is pointed out that this type of winding will hereafter be referred to only as helical, while the othe type of winding (in which the hair was formed into the approximation of a mathematical spiral) has in general been known as Croquignole winding, which term wfll hereinafter be used as opposed to helical.

It will be understood that when used herein, spiral refers to a plain curve, such as developed by a point continuously moving about a center and continuously receding from this center.

The helical type of winding and the Croquignole type are the only two which have met with any great favor in the trade.

The former adapted itself readily to simple apparatus and to fairly easy application to the head, but produced a relatively unnatural appearing curl in the hair, inasmuch as naturally curly hair is not in the form of a helix and does not have the right or left hand lead which is characteristic of any helix.

The Croquinogle type of wave approaches much more nearly in appearance that of naturally curly hair, but is more difficult to perform, requiring a great deal of practice and skill on the part of the operator, as well as more complicated apparatus.

Croquignole type of winding has been practiced upon the human head for something over ten years, the operation consisting of gripping a strand of hair adjacent the scalpof the wearer with some type of clamp and then winding the hairs or filaments of this strand from their tips or free ends towards their roots upon a generally hyperboloidal shaped spool or rod, which when the hair had been wound down to the clamp, was secured to the clamp, supplied with moisture, and heated to impart the desired wave or set to the hair filaments.

The present invention concerns itself with a method of and apparatus for performing a wind and wave which is closely akin to that heretofore known as the Croquignole wave, in that the filaments are arranged in a form closely approximating a true mathematical spiral, but which differs from the now known Croquignole type of wave in that the hairs of the strand need not be wound from their ends toward their roots, but may be wound more conveniently, comfortably and expeditiously from the roots toward their free ends.

The resultant wave, however, is every bit as natural in its appearance as is one produced by the older Croquignole process, and, insome instances, due to the fact that the hyperboloidal type of spool is unnecessary, the wave is more natural, in that each filament of a strand of hair has given to it substantially the same shape in winding as every other filament, there being no differences in diameter of wind of the filament at the central part of a rod from those at the ends thereof. 7 7

Figures 1 to 6 show one type of apparatus which will'illustrate the general principle underlying the present invention.

This apparatus consists of a clamp or protector comprising two generally rectangular arms I and 2 of rigid material between which a strand of hair may be clamped and held closely adjacent the scalp of the wearer.

These arms are shown as made of wood, although, of course many other rigid materials, suchas molded phenolic resins, built-up metal structures, and the like, can be used, and are faced with resilient contacting strips as of rubber 3. To one end of the arm I is secured, as by rivets 4 a bracket having an upstanding flange 5 formed into an arcuate notch 6 for the reception of the rod to be presently described. The bracket also has a flange I through which the rivets 4 pass. Beneath the arm I, a link 8 corresponding generally in shape to flange I is secured likewise by the rivets, and between the projecting end of flange I and link 8 the end of arm 2 is pivoted as upon rivet 9.

A spring in is shown as secured upon the upper surface of flange 7 by means of one of the rivets 4, for a purpose to be hereinafter described.

At the other or free end of arm I is a pivoted bracket consisting of an upwardly extending fiangeII similar to flange 5 and of a U or channel-shaped portion I2 which embraces the end of arm I and is pivo-tally secured thereto upon a rivet I3.

The other end of the channel-shaped portion is arranged to embrace the inclined or camshaped end I4 of arm 2, and as this bracket is moved toward the bracket 5, to wedge the arms tightly together by means of this inclined surface.

A curler rod is shown consisting of an inner tubular part I5 telescoped within an outer tubular part I6, both tubular parts being provided with longitudinally extending slots from one end nearly to the other end thereof.

The inner tube I5 extends beyond the end of the outer tube and is provided on its extreme end with a knurled knob or handle II. Adjacent this knob, or-handle a similar knob or handle I8 is formed upon the exterior of the outer tube, while, likewise upon this outer tube and adjacent handle I 8 ,a ratchet wheel I9 is formed.

One edge of the inner tube along its longitudinal slot is provided with integral teeth or projections 20 which may resemble those of a comb.

; The parts'are applied as most clearly shown in Figure 2. The hair of the'subject is divided into strands, one of them being substantially co -extensive with the closed clamp or protector, and this strand is combed into a substantially flat shape. The arms of the protector then are passed about it and bracket II is pressed from the position indicated in Figure l to that shown in Figure 2, in which position it tightly wedges these arms together upon the strand to hold it firmly and to seal it against the passage of moisture or heat to the subjects scalp.

The filaments of the strand may be combed with the teeth 20 of the rod, and these teeth are passed through the strand closely adjacent the upper surface of the clamp, as shown in Figure 2. Thereafter, the filaments are drawn (as by another comb or by hand) in an axial direction as indicated at 2 I, so that they pass along within the channel shaped interior of the tubular parts of the curler rod.

Of course, it will be apparent that while this is being done, these two tubular parts are arranged with their longitudinal slots in alignment.

With the parts and the filaments arranged as indicated in Figures 2 and 4 the operator turns the knobs or handles I! and I8 relative each other to move the two tubular parts I5 and I6 into the relative position shown in Figure 5, in which the outer one overlies the longitudinal opening in the inner tube, leaving open only a small part of the spaces between the teeth 20, so that the hairs passing through these spaces are slidably gripped between parts I5 and I6.

He then rotates the entire rod by means of the knobs I] and I8 in a counterclockwise direction (as shown in Figures 4, 5, and 6) and as he does so, the various filaments of the hair slide between the teeth 29, this sliding being resisted by the pressure of parts I5 and I6, and, after one revolu-, tion, by the snubbing action of overlying layer of filaments. These filaments pass out through the wall of the rod into a substantially true mathematical spiral formation, as shown in Figure 6, while at all times maintaining any desired tension upon the filaments themselves.

Due to slipping action, the filaments may adjust themselves relative each other, so that each is under tension and no slack in the entire wound strand will be apparent. As the rodis turned, the ratchet wheel I9 rotates over the end of spring It! which acts as a pawl to prevent unwinding of the strand from the rod.

After the winding has been completed, the strand may be surrounded with a pad, if desired, enclosed within an electric heater, and heat applied to vaporize solution which has been supplied to the hair or pad (or both) to steam the hair.

Any type of heater or pad may be used, such as single channel-shaped or two-part hinged electric external heaters, such as are 'now familiar in this art, or a small cylindrical internal heater may be slid into the interior of tube I5, or a steam jacket may be caused to surround the strand and connected with a boiler, as is likewise well known in this art.

It will be apparent that any desired solution, such as of borax or ammonia, may be used,

In Figures '7 to 9, a form or rod is shownwhich consists of a tubular piece H5 provided on its end with a handle II! and a ratchet wheel H9 and having formed upon it teeth I20. To this is pivoted an arcuate cylindrical cover I I6. Both the tube H5 and the cover II6 are provided at.

are journalled anti-friction means comprising a plurality of long, narrow rollers 121.

The relative positions of these parts at the start of the winding operation are shown in Figures '7 and 8, the cover being raised to permit the strand of hair to be inserted.

After this strand has been brought longitudinally out of the end of the rod, this cover is closed down to the position of Figure 9 and the rod rotated as in the case of the embodiment first described to wind the hair upon its exterior.

In Figure 10 a modification of the rod of Figures 1 to 6 is illustrated, in which the exterior of tube H6 is formed into a spool or hyperboloid of revolution shape, such as has been heretofore used in making waves of the Croquignole type.

The internal rod H5 is flared at its outer end to fit closely within the outer rod 216, while at its inner end it passes through handle H8 and is provided itself with a handle 2. Its use is precisely similar to that of the rod of the first six figures, but, due to its shape, it tends to throw the larger quantity of the hair toward the center of the rod and away from the ends thereof.

While I have described the illustrated embodiment of my invention in some particularity, obviously many other embodiments will readily occur to those skilled in the art to which this appertains, and I therefore do not limit myself to the precise details shown and described, but claim as my invention all embodiments, variations, and modifications coming within the scope of the subjoined claims.

I claim:

1. The method of waving hair upon the human head which comprises dividing the hair into strands, gripping one strand adjacent the scalp of the wearer with a clamp, then winding said strand from near said clamp to its end upon a rod to arrange the filaments in substantially true spiral form, and then subjecting the wound strand to heat and moisture.

2. The method of waving hair upon the human head which comprises dividing the hair into strands, gripping one strand adjacent the scalp of the wearer with a clamp, placing a recessed member closely adjacent said clamp, extending the filaments directly from said clamp to the recess in said member and then along said recess, then rotating said member and permitting said filaments to pass along the recess thereof and from said recess to the exterior of said member, each convolution underlying the preceding one, into substantially true spiral formation.

3. The method of waving hair upon the human head which comprises dividing the hair into strands, gripping one strand adjacent the scalp of the wearer with a clamp, placing a recessed member closely adjacent said clamp, extending the filaments directly from said clamp to the recess in said member and then along said recess, then rotating said member and permitting said filaments to pass along the recess thereof and from said recess to the exterior of said member, each convolution underlying the preceding one, into substantially true spiral formation, and then subjecting the Wound strand to heat and moisture.

4. The method of waving hair upon the human head which comprises dividing the hair into strands, gripping one strand adjacent the scalp of the wearer with a clamp, placing a slotted tubular member closely adjacent said clamp, extending the filaments directly from said clamp to the recess in said member and then along said recess, substantially closing the slot, then rotating said member and permitting said filaments to pass along the recess thereof and from said recess to the exterior of said member, each convolution underlying the preceding one, into substantially true spiral formation. I

5. The method of waving hair upon thehuman head which comprises dividing the hair into strands, gripping one strand adjacent the scalp of the wearer with a clamp, placing a slotted tubular member closely adjacent said clamp, ex tending the filaments directly from said clamp to the recess in said member and then along said recess, substantially closing the slot, then rotating said member, guiding said filaments as they leave said slot, and permitting said filaments to pass along the recess and from said recess to the exterior of said member, each convolution underlying the preceding one, into substantially true spiral formation.

6. The method of winding hair for waving which comprises winding the hair into substantially spiral form from adjacent its roots toward its free ends one convolution within the preceding convolutions.

7. Hair winding apparatus comprising a tubular member having a longitudinal slot communicating with the interior thereof and guiding means adjacent one edge of said slot.

8. Hair winding apparatus comprising a tubular member having a longitudinal slot communicating with the interior thereof and guiding means adjacent one edge of said slot, and closure means substantially closing said slot.

9. Hair winding apparatus comprising a tubular member having a longitudinal slot communicating with the interior thereof, and guiding means adjacent one edge of said slot, and closure means substantially closing said slot, said closure means covering a portion of said guiding means.

10. Hair winding apparatus comprising a tubular member, anti-friction means on the exterior thereof, a longitudinal slot in the tubular member communicating with the interior thereof, and guiding means adjacent one edge of said slot.

11. Hair winding apparatus comprising two telescopically arranged tubes having longitudinal slots and arranged to be rotated relative to each other about their common axis, and guiding means adjacent one slot edge.

12. Hair winding apparatus comprising two telescopically arranged tubes having longitudinal slots and arranged tobe rotated relative to each other about their common axis, and projecting teeth formed on one of said tubes and overlying a portion of the slot therein.

13. Hair winding apparatus comprising a tube having a longitudinal slot and a cover hinged thereto and arranged to substantially overlie the slot, and guiding means adjacent one slot edge.

14. Hair winding apparatus comprising a tube having a longitudinal slot, teeth formed on said tube adjacent one edge of the slot, and a cover hinged thereto and arranged to substantially overlie the slot.

15. Hair winding apparatus comprising a tube having a longitudinal slot, teeth formed on said tube adjacent one edge of the slot, a cover hinged thereto and arranged to substantially overlie the slot, and a plurality of rollers extending substantially parallel to the axis of said tube and journalled thereon.

HARVEY R. HAWGOOD. 

